Electrical & Switches

Wiring, Relays and Switches for Added Gear

Bolting on a winch, a light bar or a set of powered running boards is half the job. The other half is power and control: the relay that carries the current, the harness that gets it there, the switch you actually press, and the small parts that keep the truck's own electronics working once the new part is on.

Find Parts for Your Vehicle

1–10 of 10 results

Superwinch supplies wiring relays and winch electrical parts. Kleinn covers the control side of air horn systems. Rough Country brings switches, an OBDII splitter so an accessory can tap vehicle data without pulling a door panel apart, and portable power such as a jumper and compressor combination.

The rest of this section exists because of what a new bumper does to a modern truck. Park a grille guard or a heavy bumper in front of the factory parking sensors and adaptive cruise radar and those systems stop seeing clearly. Westin, Ranch Hand and Steelcraft build relocation brackets and sensor kits that move the hardware back into clear air so the dash stays quiet.

Rugged Ridge, Blue Ox, Firestone Ride-Rite, RIGID Industries, Air Lift and Rampage fill in the rest.

Common Questions

Will a grille guard or a new bumper break my parking sensors or adaptive cruise?

It can. On a lot of late-model trucks the sensors and radar sit exactly where the new bumper wants to be, and blocking them produces warnings and disabled features. That is what the relocation kits on this page are for, with brackets and wiring extensions that put the sensors back where they can see. Match the kit to your bumper and vehicle.

Do I need a relay for the accessory I am adding?

If the accessory draws real current, such as a winch, a light bar or an air compressor, then yes, it should be switched through a relay rather than run directly through a dash switch. The relay carries the load on heavy wire while the switch only triggers it. Follow the wiring diagram that comes with the accessory.